Then we will rank them according to fiber content, stretch, fabric quality, indigo color, where they were made, how well they were sewn, and how advanced the finishes are. Guess, what? All of the brands I picked - American Eagle, Madewell, and Citizens of Humanity, buy their denim from the same group of mills.
If you think the sustainable and ethical fashion community is small, the denim world is even smaller. There are only a few quality denim suppliers in the world - so sourcing crossover happens a lot more than you would think.
Here is where the Refinery article got it wrong - they posture that the cotton content, organic vs, conventional, vs synthetic, is what separates the designer from fast fashion jeans.
Here is why that is wrong. For the three styles I chose, none of these brands are using special types of cotton, they all use conventional. So there goes the theory that expensive denim costs more because of premium eco-friendly practices. Without getting into technicalities about supply chain and how manufacturing works, we can disprove the industry notion that expensive denim costs more because of eco-friendly practices. The eco edition is made with organic cotton and natural dye from shrimp shells.
All of the poly contents are close enough not to make a real difference in price. Polyester helps jeans keep their shape longer - this way you look as fresh at the end of the day as you did in the morning. What does affect price drastically is how much spandex. The more spandex the higher the cost of your fabric, generally speaking. Even just a percent or two can make a big difference when if comes to price and comfort. Madewell has the most spandex. For these three options, the contents are close enough that they should not really affect the overall price of the jeans drastically.
When it comes to fiber content it really comes down to personal preference. Personally, I like the fact that the American Eagle and Madewell use polyester in their jeans to increase wear performance. With a little extra stretch for added comfort that is designed to last. Perfect for when you want to look good, but feel comfy.
For a traditional denim jean with just a bit of comfortable stretch. If you are trying to keep your closet plastic and polyester free. If you are trying to do laundry less to help conserve water resources opt for a pair like American Eagle or Madewell with polyester - they will perform the best between washes. Spandex is the brand name of elastane generic stretch yarns. Spandex costs brands more than elastane. Where things get even more expensive is specialty stretch that is designed with high stretch and recovery in mind.
These performance stretch fibers are what help your jeans to snap back into place when you move and stretch. Not sure if you have good stretch? Power stretch feels almost like an ace bandage or rubber band, it really snaps and pulls back when you stretch it.
Typically, as fabric stretch increases so does the tendency for fabric growth or shrinkage. So consumers can have super stretch jeans that fit all day, every day. Best Chlorine Resistance to textile processes, e. These are the cheapest but, they are using the best stretch and fiber technology. Types of yarns are what divide high-end denim from lower cost options. This is because the type of yarn is the building blocks of the fabric. Bad yarns will give you bad fabric.
So, instead of thinking about what is the best denim fabric, we need to think what are the best yarns? Have you heard of core spun yarn? Core spun means that the cotton fibers were spun around a spandex core. Cheaper jeans will not hide the elastic yarns like this, they are just twisted in. Stretch fibers are shiny and do not take indigo dye well. Look closely. If there is a bit of shine on your jeans, they are not core spun. The shine comes from being able to see the elastic. Madewell - Yes, they do not advertise this, but you can tell upon analyzing the jeans.
Citizens - Yes, they do not advertise this, but you can tell upon analyzing the jeans. None of the options I chose to review are made with real organic indigo from a plant. They all get their color from a synthetic indigo dye.
If you do get your hands on some garments made with real indigo denim , the kind that is made from fermented plants, and is actually eco-friendly, that is a rarity. Real indigo is definitely worth some extra cash. So, because all three brands are using synthetics there is no real differentiator between low end and high-end indigo quality as Refinery29 originally thought. And, if we go back to the Madewell Eco Edit example it is possible to have eco-friendly dyes that actually cost less.
No one. For me, a brand needs to be using real plant dyes or other eco-options to get credit for indigo quality. The Refinery article states that the best denim is selvedge, and coming out of Japan. A big part of the reason that selvage denim is so expensive is that there is A LOT of waste. Not because it is actually higher quality.
Smith in the Teen Vogue video also mentions how much fabric selvedge consumes. Selvedge denim if authentic is woven on a special loom. Selvedge looms create a much more narrow fabric. The denim pattern then needs to be placed on the fabric in a very specific way so the seams of the garment line up with the red and white selvage on the sides of the fabric.
This special way of laying the pattern is far from efficient, and basically the cause of all the waste. On wider width fabrics where selvedge does not need to line up with seams, patterns can be laid more efficiently so less fabric is wasted. You as the consumer are paying for waste - not a higher quality denim. So, if you are looking for the highest quality denim, skip the selvedge. We did. But, that is not an indication of quality. So, there goes the idea that selvedge is always expensive or quality.
Japan does have some amazing quality textiles, but they are by no means the gold standard - There is Italy, Turkey, and even the USA.
Amri Kibbler, a former fashion editor and the founder Heymama , a community for creative mothers, many of whom live in their denim, estimates her jeans collection at almost 30 pairs. It can add up. Kibbler says that most cheap denim stretches out easily, so it has a shorter lifespan.
And with some inexpensive dark washes, they'll rinse out and fade a little quicker. The takeaway? The processes expensive denim jackets have to go through before they land in a store and eventually your closet play a big role in determining their selling price.
So, how complex is denim processing? Is it mechanized and automated, or does it involve skilled workers? With some of the intricate procedures carried out on the denim jacket, you could argue that what you are purchasing is not just an item of clothing but a work of industrial art.
The cost of hiring workers to create your denim jacket will have a direct bearing on its final cost. Using skilled workers, especially in the selvedge and distressing stages, will affect its pricing. In countries where the process of making your denim jacket involves machines in an assembly line arrangement, attention to detail is unlikely.
Therefore, the cost may not be too high. But hand-made, limited edition jackets will cost more—often a lot more. However, the indigo hue is still by far the most popular color for denim garments, jackets included.
These days, indigo dye is mostly synthetic, although more costly indigo from fermented plants is also available. In the denim world, attention to detail is another factor that determines the cost of your denim jacket.
To create selvedge , one needs a traditional shuttle loom that creates a narrower band of denim compared to the conventional dimensions. It uses a continuous thread that is tightly woven, resulting in a fabric that does not fray. This highly desirable fabric does, admittedly consume and waste thread in manufacturing.
Thus, the price goes up to compensate for the loss. Mass production, therefore, becomes necessary to recoup the investment in equipment. Most of this process is outsourced to Asian countries, where the labor laws are not as strict as in the USA. This does lower the price to the consumer, but at the cost of quality and concern over working conditions. However, before raw denim is broken in by wearing it for a long time before washing , it is rigid and uncomfortable.
To make the fabric more malleable, most denim makers will add synthetic fibers to the cotton base. A small amount of polyester will make the denim more resistant to wear. Usually, though, this neither adds to nor detracts from the general cost of making a denim jacket. On the other hand, stretch fibers do drive up the price. Lycra and spandex are the fibers of choice, both of which snap back to their original position after stretching.
This will keep a garment looking as fresh at the end of the day as it did in the morning. The more stretch fiber there is, the more expensive a denim jacket is going to be. Another consideration is how manufacturers incorporate stretch fibers into the the fabric. It is true that you pay a lot for image, marketing and wholesale-trademargins — not the product.
Mainly, I agree with most of what is mentioned by Firas. Thank you for your input here! With regards to fit, I mean the cuts which are incredibly flattering when worn. No other brands seem to get it right in regards to making something flattering and body enhancing. I hope that makes it more clear!
Soft and hugging but the Transcend — 3 pairs, same size all fit me very differently. I am also constantly tugging them up. Too large you say? I go down one size and I can barely get the button done. They are much thicker and the store told me they would stretch out, which they have.
By the way, I love these much more than my Paige and AG denim, price tag aside. Maybe check the made in label on the inside of the jeans, that might help! They never stretch out on me and fit me perfectly! Love them! Hi Lorna I am a 51 year old locksmith so have very little knowledge of the fashion industry.
However I do love buying and owning designer casual clothes when I can as the quality is so obvious to my untrained eyes. I have been at a loss recently as what do for ny next pair with my current budget and I am so pleased to have found your article which is so informative and knowledgeable.
Thanks to your wisdom I will go for Diesel again happy to pay the price for my next pair of knockabouts outside of work. You are a star thank you so much. I absolutely agree with you!
There is a huge difference between premium jeans and cheap jeans. I am sold and I will never go back to wearing cheap jeans except for mowing the lawn LOL! The problem is that styles change. Take Lucky Brand, for example. A few years ago, they were big and baggy.
No one wears that style anymore. So, I guess my point is, if you pay a lot for a pair of jeans that looks good now, is it even going to be in style after a few years? Lucky has sold, of course, and I have several pair of newer ones, which are the stretch kind. I also like Tommy Hilfiger and Polo; but I look for bargains. Now it seems the style to turn up the bottoms and make a sort of cuff.
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Fast Free Shipping Worldwide. Get this widget. You may also enjoy:. Lorna Author. Ok, I just sent you an email with a few photos. Thank you so much! Todd k. Travis Bird. I was trying to figure out where you manage to keep over pairs of jeans. Amber Shannon.
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