A redwood branch landing flat on a roof is less damaging than a branch that falls vertically through a roof. If you must prune your redwoods to open up light to your property, leave some live branches down low on the trunk to provide some measure of protection to houses or decks under the tree and to contribute to the tree's diameter growth. Consider shortening especially long branches rather than pruning them back to the trunk.
Redwoods can send out new sprouts at the ends of stubbed branches. Given a few years, redwoods that have had their branches cropped back can look indistinguishable from unpruned redwoods unless you look very carefully. Hire a competent climber to only remove deadwood from the crown if there are no obvious problems with the tree.
Have forked tops thinned to one sturdy top. If both forks are unstable, cut back to strong wood and budget to have the new sprouts thinned in a couple years. Hire a consulting arborist to look at your trees. Consulting arborists are trained to look at the root zone of the trees, take note of prevailing winds, soil compaction and many other considerations that a logger or climbing arborist might not think of.
For any tree to be hazardous there needs to be a "target" around to be damaged. By definition, if a tree is located away from structures, wires and people it cannot be hazardous. Redwood trees are endemic to Northern California. They are the very reason some people live in our beautiful county. It only takes a minute to sign up.
Connect and share knowledge within a single location that is structured and easy to search. Our redwood trees were too big and too close to the house so we had them cut down. Now we will grind out the stumps and remove the large roots. However, the ground is totally saturated with the smaller old redwood roots. What should we do about them before we landscape? Tree roots stop growing immediately after the tree has been felled, but may take weeks to months and longer to die unless the stump has been poisoned with a herbicide.
If the stump is not treated, then the roots may send up sprouts, and the roots will start to grow again. While they are alive, trying to advance their decomposition will not work. It is recommended that any major construction work wait for 6 months after killing the roots so that any ground settlement can occur. If the house were close to the redwood such that the roots were able to extend underneath, then the house may settle a little as well. Presumably your arborist can advise how far the large roots have spread, and whether this is a possibility or not.
Sign up to join this community. My guess is that a building can survive at least 3 centuries near a redwood if it's not put too close, and the tree does not have any large defects in the crown; likely to break and crush the building. If a building is supported on like pier blocks instead of a continuous foundation trenched through roots, existing redwoods can last decades if not centuries longer.
It is easier to start with a building and plant the redwood next to it, because there are more options for the depth and type of foundation. Roots can only exert a certain amount of pressure. Redwoods can even kill their own tissue due to weight under the oldest of the big redwoods. Redwoods have their limits. Redwoods and the Achilles Heel The closeness of a building to redwoods should be based on the size of debris that is likely to fall, or not fall, from the tree.
If the trunk and branches are in good shape, and the top can be pruned at 10 year intervals to remove defects, a building could be put 8 to 12 feet from a redwood. With expectation of maybe 50 to years use. At 20 feet away from a redwood, a building could be expected to last to years if the frame is slightly stronger than normal, and the roof platform is doubled to withstand a few large limbs falling during storms. No matter how well the building is built though, I would not sleep in it during a storm.
Right now, there is a 70 Douglas fir about 10 feet from my office, and I don't stay in it during windstorms over 60 mph winds. I have a question about redwood root shaving. I live on the East Coast in a year-old house. It is located about 10 feet from the house. Unfortunately the space between the tree and the house is our driveway and only egress from the property.
The tree roots have now buckled the driveway, raising it inches, both splitting the drive and raising it up about 10 inches higher sloping it towards the house. Between the water collections against our structure, damage to our driveway and branches landing on our roof, we feel the tree needs to go. Our neighbor, upon whose property the tree resides, wants to shave the roots and trim the tree.
While we all love the tree, are we tempting the fates? Nice to have found this blog I found out that the prior owner planted it 55 years ago and it's now about ' tall and is about 9 feet from the house. Great to see this blog. Another question about Coast Redwood roots: Our leach field is about 50 feet from a redwood we planted 19 years ago. There are two inch oaks and a inch cedar between the redwood and the leach field, a inch ponderosa about 15 feet from the leach field, and various mature oaks surrounding the leach area.
Would the redwood roots be likely to go through the roots of these other trees and reach the leach field in the next 50 years or so? If so, are the roots from this younger tree more likely to cause failure than roots from the pre-existing oak, cedar, or ponderosa that are closer to the leach lines?
Wow Anon, I could only guess on this one My bet is always on the redwood. Their roots will always seek nutrients and moisture. Too much moisture will drown them, but it sounds to me like you will have a very happy redwood downhill from a septic system. Most roots will end up in the leach field. Trees and leach don't mix.
Then there are several smaller trees about. I was considering redoing the roof next year- perhaps I should have it reinforced? The house sits straight and the lower back section is poured concrete. There doesn't seem to be a problem after all these years they are simpatico. Thank You Earnie! I just found this blog when looking for info about redwoods and if they easily fall over in storms. I have looked a lot of different web-sites and none of them thus far have mentioned "anchor roots.
I have to admit though, that I may have made a mistake in planting these three redwoods. I knew little about the trees at the time and I was collecting California Native trees and shrubs at the time. So naturally I wanted a small grove of redwoods.
I love them dearly, but neighbors are a problem, and I mean neighbors who literally know nothing about trees and or nature. Very kind people, but they would be better off living in a "shopping mall. I have 9 redwoods on a slope at the rear of my home. They have been there 22 years. I planted azaleas and rodys as well as perenials under the other drip line on the slope. The drought seems to have hit one or two of our redwoods now with brown tops and isolated brown branches.
Does one cut off the brown dead top of the redwood, and prune away the bropwn branches, and just water profusely? ANy help would be appreciated. We are in NorCAl. So my husband and I just bought a house in central California where the previous owners planted 3 redwood trees around the pool no further than 3 feet back.
We took them all down this weekend to prevent damage to the pool, but we are wondering if the root system will continue to thrive and if so, how would you recommend killing the stumps with out digging them out. I am affriad that digging them out so close to a pool will cause more harm than good with so much shifting soil. They were not huge redwoods, probably 15 feet for the smaller one, 35 and 40 feet for the other two. Everything is on flat level ground and we only found one large root on the surface.
We cut them flush with the dirt and were planning on laying a weed barrier and covering them with rock. Do you think that will be enough or do we need to do more? Thank you for your time! From what I have been reading, it seems that the roots are too big to be redwood. Are they? If they are, can we cut them, put in a barrier, and build?
Or will that kill the tree. Any information would be very much appreciated. Thank you all in advance. I am known for my contrary opinions here, so here goes again.
I think you can cut these roots you may want to treat the cut ends with liquid copper fungicide search that and you will find my earlier postings. Why do I think it would be OK. You do have 17 feet--that's not bad. Plus, it is a corner, so you are not cutting off a swath all along one side of the tree.
Finally, you will be reducing the roots of the tree by, I would guess, less than 10 percent. Earlier in this forum, under a topic I forgot the name of, I described what was done at Penn Alps in MD to a couple of Norway spruce trees--they were within 5 feet of the foundation of a new house that was built and most of the roots on one side of these trees were cut. This house is down wind in a very, very windy location and those trees as of now, about 5 years later, are still firm and have had no top deterioration.
Now I don't know anything specific about how redwoods would react to such disturbance, but I would guess that it will be at least as well. Roads have been built all through the CA redwood state parks very, very close to large redwood trees, certainly resulting in the destruction of the roots on those sides of the trees right next to the roads, and I don't see any of these trees dying, being uprooted, or losing their tops.
I know these redwoods are very deep rooted in the alluvial soil there, but those roots must have been destroyed. But, But, But, be very careful not to disturb the other rooting area of this tree during construction--have it roped off, covered with heavy plywood boards, really, really thick heavy mulch or whatever for ONLY the period needed for construction. Don't have any extra soil put over the roots.
Cutting them probably wouldn't kill the tree, but might make it die back leaving an ugly dead top , and more seriously, very probably will make it unstable and liable to blow down, with all the consequent safety risks. Definitely not recommended. Okay, then if cutting them is not an option, is there any way to build around them?
Or is it a choice between house and tree? Should I plant Bare Root Roses with black canes? Redwood Siding south-facing buckling and fading after 6 months. I think my Echeveria is getting root rot :. How do I kill weeds that are growing out of bush roots? If you are talking about adding a regular room with a sunk foundation, so that you have to cut away the tree the outlook for the tree is not too good.
Beyond that you really need someone to view the site in person. Sometimes cuts and fills do not kill trees subjected to them, but as a general rule these can be quite deleterious.
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